Escalada/ Climbing
Por onde eu andei e um pouco do que fiz por la
Climbing Trips
When I was about 14 years old, my good friend and neighbor, Stanley, took me climbing for the first time, near to our homes.
Climbing Trips
When I was about 14 years old, my good friend and neighbor, Stanley, took me climbing for the first time, near to our homes.
To challenge myself, playing with my friends until sunset in a deep relationship with nature, was like love at first sight.
Since then I have dedicated pretty much all my energy, time, and money to Climbing; to climb different types of rocks, try routes onsight and enjoy other country’s outdoors.
20 years latter, I don’t have properties or possessions but I have this list of places I climbed and I’m very honored of.
United States
California (1997, 98, 99, 03, 04, 05, 08, 09, 10, 11)
Malibu Creek, Willianson Rock, San Diego (short routes + boulders + gym), Joshua Tree, Mick’s Beach, Lost Rocks, Castle Rock, Pinnacles, Jail House, Grotto (Sonora), Columes of the Giant, Donner Summit (Lake Taho), Clarks Canyon, Owens River Gorge, Backar Boulders, Patricia Bowl, Bear Creek Spire (13,729ft), Rock Creek, Needles, Shuteye, The Incredible Hulk, Tuolumme, Mont Cannes, Tennaya Peak, Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peak, Privati Property Wall, Pyawin Dome, Mt Dana (13,050ft) Yosemite (Higher Cathedral, Higher Spire, Midle Cathedral, North Dome, Half Dome, El Capitan).
Utah (1998, 99, 03, 04, 05, 08, 09)
American Fork , Maple Canyon, Chadbourne (Neff’sCanyon), Big Cottonwood Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Hellgate (limestone), Salt Lake areas + Gym, Uintas (boulder), The Horn, San Rafael Swell (Eagle Canyon), Mexican Hat (Monument Valley), Zion National Park, Arches National Park, Potash Road (Wall Street), Hunter Canyon, Day Canyon, Long canyon, Crow’s Head Spires, Big Bend (boulders), Crack House, Fisher Tower, Castleton Tower, The Priest (Chimney), Rectory (Fine Jane), Mill Creek, South Mesa, Indian Creek, North Six Shooter, (Mount Mellenthin 3300 m) LaSal mountains, (Mount Superior 11000 feet) Alta.
Hawaii (2003) Waimea (Oahu), Kauai. Florida (98) Gym
New York (98) Central Park (Rat Rock), Gunks ,West Point, Chelsea Pier + 2 gyms.
Wyoming (97) Devil’s Tower, Wild Iris.
South Dakota (1997), Mont Rushmore, Needles.
New Mexico (1998, 03, 04) Sandia Peak (boulder/ top), Enchanted Tower.
Nevada (97, 99, 03, 05, 07, 08, 09, 10) Mont Charleston, Red Rocks, Mount Potasi, Clark, VRG.
Colorado (1997, 03, 04) Rifle, Penitent Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Flag Staff (boulder), Tellurade, Veil.
Arizona (2005), Paradise Fork (no bolts), Promise Land, Groom Creek, Oak Creek Canyon, Granite Mountain, Thumb Butte, Le Petit Verdon (The Pit).
Texas (2004), Hueco Tanks
Thailandia (2004, 05) Ton Sai /Railey, Happy island, Vinland, Ao Nang Tower, Ko Lao Lieng, Ko Lading, Koloka, Ko Yao Noi, Ko Pak bia.
Itália (2005) Sperlonga, Roma (gyms).
Cuba (2004) Viñales / Cabeça de Vaca + Vega Crespo, El Palanque + Cave, La Costaneira, Jaguayana, Cueva Larga.
Espanha, França, Portugal, Panama, Canada.
United States
California (1997, 98, 99, 03, 04, 05, 08, 09, 10, 11)
Malibu Creek, Willianson Rock, San Diego (short routes + boulders + gym), Joshua Tree, Mick’s Beach, Lost Rocks, Castle Rock, Pinnacles, Jail House, Grotto (Sonora), Columes of the Giant, Donner Summit (Lake Taho), Clarks Canyon, Owens River Gorge, Backar Boulders, Patricia Bowl, Bear Creek Spire (13,729ft), Rock Creek, Needles, Shuteye, The Incredible Hulk, Tuolumme, Mont Cannes, Tennaya Peak, Matthes Crest, Cathedral Peak, Privati Property Wall, Pyawin Dome, Mt Dana (13,050ft) Yosemite (Higher Cathedral, Higher Spire, Midle Cathedral, North Dome, Half Dome, El Capitan).
Utah (1998, 99, 03, 04, 05, 08, 09)
American Fork , Maple Canyon, Chadbourne (Neff’sCanyon), Big Cottonwood Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Hellgate (limestone), Salt Lake areas + Gym, Uintas (boulder), The Horn, San Rafael Swell (Eagle Canyon), Mexican Hat (Monument Valley), Zion National Park, Arches National Park, Potash Road (Wall Street), Hunter Canyon, Day Canyon, Long canyon, Crow’s Head Spires, Big Bend (boulders), Crack House, Fisher Tower, Castleton Tower, The Priest (Chimney), Rectory (Fine Jane), Mill Creek, South Mesa, Indian Creek, North Six Shooter, (Mount Mellenthin 3300 m) LaSal mountains, (Mount Superior 11000 feet) Alta.
Hawaii (2003) Waimea (Oahu), Kauai. Florida (98) Gym
New York (98) Central Park (Rat Rock), Gunks ,West Point, Chelsea Pier + 2 gyms.
Wyoming (97) Devil’s Tower, Wild Iris.
South Dakota (1997), Mont Rushmore, Needles.
New Mexico (1998, 03, 04) Sandia Peak (boulder/ top), Enchanted Tower.
Nevada (97, 99, 03, 05, 07, 08, 09, 10) Mont Charleston, Red Rocks, Mount Potasi, Clark, VRG.
Colorado (1997, 03, 04) Rifle, Penitent Canyon, Eldorado Canyon, Flag Staff (boulder), Tellurade, Veil.
Arizona (2005), Paradise Fork (no bolts), Promise Land, Groom Creek, Oak Creek Canyon, Granite Mountain, Thumb Butte, Le Petit Verdon (The Pit).
Texas (2004), Hueco Tanks
Thailandia (2004, 05) Ton Sai /Railey, Happy island, Vinland, Ao Nang Tower, Ko Lao Lieng, Ko Lading, Koloka, Ko Yao Noi, Ko Pak bia.
Itália (2005) Sperlonga, Roma (gyms).
Cuba (2004) Viñales / Cabeça de Vaca + Vega Crespo, El Palanque + Cave, La Costaneira, Jaguayana, Cueva Larga.
Espanha, França, Portugal, Panama, Canada.
México (1999, 04) Santa Cruz, Tulum (Cancun).
Peru (1997) Machu Pichu (4 days hiking + boulder ), Mira Flores (beach wall).
Chile (2000) Las Chiucas, Punta Lobos (boulder), El Romel (caminho del Maipo).
Argentina (2000) Frey, Pedras Brancas (Cerro Otto), El Pilar, Palestras
Brazil
Rio de Janeiro (1994, 96, 97, 98, 99, 01, 02, 04, 06, 07)
Pão de Açúcar, Urca (Morro da Urca, Urubú, Ácidos, Babilonia, boulders) , Falésias da Lagoa, Corte Cantagalo, Campo Escola 2000, Paineiras, Primatas, Pico da Tijuca, Agulhinha da Gávea, Aderencias, Corcovado, Barrinha, Itaquatiara, Prainha (Grumari), Guaratiba (fendas), Ilha Grande, Búzios, Poço Fundo.
Petrópolis (1996, 99, 07), Bonfim(Pedra do Ser), Pedra do Contorno, Morro da Formiga, Cabeça de Cachorro. Teresópolis (1996), Dedo de Deus. Salinas (1996, 07) Pico Maior, Capacete, Caixa de Fósforo.
Amazônia (2001), Boulders. São Paulo (1997, 01, 07), Pedra do Baú, Bauzinho, Pedra da Divisa, Pedreira SP, Atibaia, Casa de Pedra, Itatiaia.
Minas Gerais (1994, 96, 98, 99, 04, 06, 07), Serra do Cipó, Gruta da Lapinha + Sitio do Rod, Bauzinho, Ouro Preto.
Paraná (incontaveis), Anhangáva, Marumbí , São Luiz do Purunã, Buraco do Padre, Salto São Jorge, Furnas Gêmeas, Canal. Rio Grande do Sul, Itacolomi, Gruta Caxias do Sul, Torres , Bagé.
Santa Catarina (casa)
Morro da Cruz, Pedreira do Abraão, Prainha Itaguaçú, Pedra Branca, Praia Mole, Barra da Lagoa, Lagoa, Santinho, Ingleses, Brava, Naufragados, Lagoinha do Leste, Saquinho, Guarda do Embaú, Garopaba, Ilha do Batuta, Laguna, Camboriú (Praia Brava), Pedreira Itapema + Plaza, Canto Grande, Apiúna, Rio do Sul, São Francisco do Sul, Morro da Cruz, Morro da Palha, Paredão das Lágrimas, Corupa.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Best Climbs
A list of some special climbs. The hardest, the prettyest, the ones that reminds me very happy days!!!!!!
Uma listinha das escaladas mais marcantes. As mais difíceis, as mais bonitas, as que me lembram de dias muito felizes!!!!
OnSight
Boulder
Big Wall / Multpitch / Parede
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* Organizer of the First Brazilian Boulder Competition “Floripa Natural Meeting”. Mole beach, Floripa/ 1995.
* Organizer, Judge, Route setter of several Indoor Climbing Competition. 1993/95.
* Fundadora da ACEM Associacao Catarinense de Escalada e Montanha. Fpolis 1993
Matéria exibida no programa Patrola (RBSTV) em julho de 2000. Produção e apresentação Juliana Petters. Pedreira do Abraão.
Peru (1997) Machu Pichu (4 days hiking + boulder ), Mira Flores (beach wall).
Chile (2000) Las Chiucas, Punta Lobos (boulder), El Romel (caminho del Maipo).
Argentina (2000) Frey, Pedras Brancas (Cerro Otto), El Pilar, Palestras
Brazil
Rio de Janeiro (1994, 96, 97, 98, 99, 01, 02, 04, 06, 07)
Pão de Açúcar, Urca (Morro da Urca, Urubú, Ácidos, Babilonia, boulders) , Falésias da Lagoa, Corte Cantagalo, Campo Escola 2000, Paineiras, Primatas, Pico da Tijuca, Agulhinha da Gávea, Aderencias, Corcovado, Barrinha, Itaquatiara, Prainha (Grumari), Guaratiba (fendas), Ilha Grande, Búzios, Poço Fundo.
Petrópolis (1996, 99, 07), Bonfim(Pedra do Ser), Pedra do Contorno, Morro da Formiga, Cabeça de Cachorro. Teresópolis (1996), Dedo de Deus. Salinas (1996, 07) Pico Maior, Capacete, Caixa de Fósforo.
Amazônia (2001), Boulders. São Paulo (1997, 01, 07), Pedra do Baú, Bauzinho, Pedra da Divisa, Pedreira SP, Atibaia, Casa de Pedra, Itatiaia.
Minas Gerais (1994, 96, 98, 99, 04, 06, 07), Serra do Cipó, Gruta da Lapinha + Sitio do Rod, Bauzinho, Ouro Preto.
Paraná (incontaveis), Anhangáva, Marumbí , São Luiz do Purunã, Buraco do Padre, Salto São Jorge, Furnas Gêmeas, Canal. Rio Grande do Sul, Itacolomi, Gruta Caxias do Sul, Torres , Bagé.
Santa Catarina (casa)
Morro da Cruz, Pedreira do Abraão, Prainha Itaguaçú, Pedra Branca, Praia Mole, Barra da Lagoa, Lagoa, Santinho, Ingleses, Brava, Naufragados, Lagoinha do Leste, Saquinho, Guarda do Embaú, Garopaba, Ilha do Batuta, Laguna, Camboriú (Praia Brava), Pedreira Itapema + Plaza, Canto Grande, Apiúna, Rio do Sul, São Francisco do Sul, Morro da Cruz, Morro da Palha, Paredão das Lágrimas, Corupa.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Best Climbs
A list of some special climbs. The hardest, the prettyest, the ones that reminds me very happy days!!!!!!
Uma listinha das escaladas mais marcantes. As mais difíceis, as mais bonitas, as que me lembram de dias muito felizes!!!!
OnSight
- Voyager
- Lunatic Fringe 5.10c, Jo-Jo 5.10b. Yosemite/ US. 08
- Tennaya Peak + 2 + Matthes Crest, Freesolo (linkup). Tuolumne/CA. 08
- Cathedral Peak, Bear Creek Spire Freesolo. Tuolumne/CA. 07
- Zoaster Toaster 5.12a. Maple Cannyon, Utah/ US. 05
- Yaak Crak 5.11d. Red Rocks, Nevada/ US. 05
- Scarface 5.11. Indian Creek, Utah/ US. 05
- Regletera? 5.11d, Airy Interlude (link up) 5.10+. Needles/ CA. 05
- Illusion Dweller 5.10b. Joshua Tree, California/ US. 05
- Love for Travel 7ª+ (8a). Ton Sai/ Thailand. 05
- Catch a Fire, Fips der Affe, Lars Lars, Britishly White, Lom Mon,
- Black Cat, Lao Lieng (Variation) all 7a (7c). Thailand. 05
- King Spud 5.11c. Clark’s Canyon, California/ US. 04
- East Buttress of El Capitan 5.10b (all 11 on lead/ 6 h). Yosemite/ US. 04
- Anabanana 5.11b, Mucho Pumpito 5.11a. Vinales/ Cuba. 04
- North Chimney of Castleton Tower 5.9 (all 3 onlead),
- Stolen Chimney of Ancient Art 5.10c (all 4 onlead). Moab, Utah/ US. 1998
Red Point
- Hot rocks,
- Anunnak 5.12, Coyne Crack 5.11+. Indian Creek/ US. 08
- Ataque de Hulk 8c. Pedreira, Fpolis/ Brasil. 06
- Mr Hide 8c, Lamurias (linkup) 7c, Ética 7c. Cipó, MG/Brasil. 06
- Raízes profundas (1a RP, 2a Onsight) 7b. Marumbi, PR/Brasil. 06
- Technochrist 5.12c (8c). Moab, Utah/ EUA. 05
- April Fools, Ko Mitt (2 try) 7b (8b),
- LalBab, KoHo, TongueThaid, Wake&Bake, Reminiscence, 7a+ (8a). Ton Sai/ Thailand. 05
- Cookie Monster 5.12a. Yosemite/ EUA. 04
- Sleeping Beauty 5.11c. Enchanted Tower/ EUA. 03
- Cocaine Corner V4. Yosemite 05
- Golden Rasta V3. Tuolumme 05
- Squeal like a pig, Wannabe, Osterizer, Souther Hospitality, The local Flakes, V2.
- No one gets out of here alive, Drooling Banjos V3. Hueco Tanks/ US. 04
- West Face of El Captain, Simul-Climbing. Yosemite/ US. 08
- Positive Vibration 5.11. Incredible Hulk, CA/US. 05
- Mont Cannes 5.7, Freesolo. California/ US. 05
- Triple Direct @ El Capitan (4days, 3nights). Yosemite/ EUA. 2004
- Northwest Face 5.9 C1, Half Dome (10 horas- 15 first pitches onlead/ 4:30h). Yosemite/ US. 04
- Domingos Giobbi, Pedra do Baú. São Bento do Sapucai/ SP. 2001
- Prodigal Son IV-A2, Moonlight VI-C1. Zion, Utah/ EUA. 1999.
- Devil’s Tower (1ª Brasileira). Wyoming/ EUA. 1998.
- Grande Leste Pico Maior. Salinas/ RJ. 1996.
- Pao de Acucar, Dedo de Deus (1ª Catarinense). Rio de Janeiro/ RJ. 1994.
- Boulders & Cracks, Saquinho/ Floripa 2006
- Não é o fim do mundo 7b. Morro da Cruz/ Floripa 1999
- Beata dos Mil pilões 7c. Morro da Cruz/ Floripa 1995.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* Organizer of the First Brazilian Boulder Competition “Floripa Natural Meeting”. Mole beach, Floripa/ 1995.
* Organizer, Judge, Route setter of several Indoor Climbing Competition. 1993/95.
* Fundadora da ACEM Associacao Catarinense de Escalada e Montanha. Fpolis 1993
Matéria exibida no programa Patrola (RBSTV) em julho de 2000. Produção e apresentação Juliana Petters. Pedreira do Abraão.
